
The Magic Wand: Redpointing Efficiently
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Want to climb those routes you've always dreamed of, but afraid they might be above you? Wonder no more!
What is the Magic Wand?
The magic wand is an ultralight, compact stick clip that attaches to a climber's harness. It is designed to let climbers to stick clip past and challenging sections on outdoor sport climbs.
The Benefits of Using the Magic Wand
Climbers have a limited amount of energy to spend on any given day. Climbing into unknown territory will often lead to a climber using inefficient beta, and expending more energy than is necessary. This is doubly true when the climber needs several attempts to gain the next bolt, and must start over at the bolt they whip back to.
Stick clipping the next bolt instead allows the climber to inspect all the rock features and make more informed decisions, leading to better beta and less energy expenditure overall.
Advanced climbers may also want to skip certain parts of a route to focus on working out a single crux section. The Magic Wand allows for an easy commute up the wall to those crucial sections.
A scary section of a route can be mentally taxing, which is also a form of energy worth conserving. By working these sections on toprope, the climber may work out beta without fear, and be able to focus entirely on the movement instead of the consequences of a fall.
Conclusion
All these energy saving strategies add up over the course of a few attempts, so a climber can have more energy to spend when it counts, on the redpoint attempt.
With the magic wand by your side, you too can take your sport climbing to new heights. Start incorporating this innovative tool into your sport climbing routine and watch as your performance improves. Happy climbing!